Gertie's Sheath Dress Pattern Review

I made a dress from Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing. Here is Gertie's version.  I love the color and the fit.  This dress called to me!

 I chose a stretch cotton sateen for my fabric.  The fabric had been in my stash for a long time.  I got it at Mood in Los Angeles almost two years ago.  It was so precious to me that I didn't cut into it because I didn't want to ruin it, which was beginning to get silly.  The fabric is no good unless you use it.
In the book, she has a sweetheart neckline, which I am rarely a fan of.  I modified the neckline to a square - she gives instructions on how to go about this, which I found very useful.

 I love the patterns in Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing. This is the third dress I have made from that book.  The first one was her Wiggle Dress and the second one was the Shirtwaist Dress.  All of them are flattering and perfect for my body type.  I know that some people have complained that if you don't have curves, the patterns are hard to fit, but since I have a fuller figure, I made almost no adjustments to get these to fit.

 I made a fabric belt from a belt kit I found at a thrift shop in my Grandma's home town.  She volunteered there for years and it was nice to purchase and use something from it.  It really finishes the dress.

 I made a lapped zipper.  There are lapped zipper tutorials everywhere out there, but the best one I have found is the free one available from Craftsy. It is Mastering Zipper Techniques with Sunni Standing.  She uses a technique I haven't seen anywhere else and it is really great.  Watching the video is also free!

 I lined the dress with 100% cotton. I wanted it to be breathable since it is a warm-weather dress.  I only lined the bodice

 Here is a side view.  I matched the flower patterns completely on the back, but I didn't do that on the sides.  My main concern was just not getting two white dots over my breasts.  It's happened to me before and I didn't have enough fabric to start over.

Now for the pattern review.
The good: I love this dress.  I wouldn't change a thing about the pattern.  The only thing about how it wears is the fabric.  The cotton sateen grew a size or two when I wore it for a day.  It was nice to have extra room after a large dinner, but overall, that isn't really ideal.  I'll have to find a fabric with give, but that doesn't grow out of control.  Suggestions welcome.

The complaints: Once again, I am not a fan of how the pattern pieces are all drawn on the same pieces of paper.  The pieces are overlapping and it is sometimes difficult to follow the right lines.  Not impossible, but kind of a pain. Once you get through that, it is easy and worth it.

Here is Gertie's first book (which I highly recommend).

Housekeeping:  I have been meaning to write a review of Gertie's newer book Gertie Sews Vintage Casual for awhile, but have been hesitant.  The sewing community is so positive (which is what makes you awesome) but this review isn't.  I pre-ordered this book and was so excited to get it, but I couldn't have been more disappointed.  She discussed on her blog that she lost weight and I suspect that it really made a difference in the type of patterns she produced.  NONE of the patterns looked like they were flattering for fuller figures.  Sure, there are some plus-size models in the book, but the clothes really looked terrible on these beautiful models.  Only buy this book if you don't have curves. It would also be useful to be a size six.  It could be that I am just experiencing the opposite of what less curvy girls thought of the first book.

I have also been procrastinating on another review... I ordered a lingerie kit from Gertie's Etsy store some time ago and was disappointed in the customer service.  It arrived very late (four weeks later than promised) and several of my emails were never answered - when it was only a week late, I noticed a new color came in and asked if I could switch.  Then a couple of weeks later I inquired again about the order.  I never heard back at all.  I understand if a switch can't be made, but customer emails should be answered.

I was such a Gertie fan and it is so disappointing to see.  I am sad to say I am not in a hurry to get any more of her products. Has anyone else experienced any of this? 

Thanks for reading - can't wait to hear what all of you think about the second book or if I am way off the mark about the customer service. 

The Shirtwaist Dress from Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing

My latest dress is the Shirtwaist Dress from Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing.  The fabric is 100% cotton.

The dress has a collar - which I was a little apprehensive about sewing.  It is actually the first time I have sewn a collar.  It isn't perfect, but I liked trying a new technique. 

The front has pleats, but the back has a few rows of elastic thread sewn at the waist to make a snug but stretchy fit. My favorite part is the pockets.  I love having pockets.  I couldn't keep my hands out of them, even for these photos.

I like the buttons down the front, but I used snaps instead because the buttonhole feature on my sewing machine hasn't been working lately.  I think it is time to get my machine serviced, but I don't want to be without it.  I sewed a button on the front of the dress to make it look like there are buttonholes, but it is all trickery.

 Here is Gertie's version. I like the flowered fabric she uses.

Gertie's Shirtwaist Dress - photo from her book

I deviated from the pattern in one way- I sewed synthetic horsehair around the hem when it didn't call for it.  I don't think it was a good move.  Eventually, I'll take it out, but I didn't have time to redo anything since I was in a bit of a time crunch.  I sewed the dress to wear to a funeral.  My grandma passed away and she was a gifted seamstress and I think sewing the dress in her honor felt good.  She probably even had a dress like this in the 50s.

My grandma was born in 1916 and one of my favorite stories she told about her childhood was when she was a little girl, she wanted a fur coat for her doll.  Since my farming family had more talent and resourcefulness than money, going out and buying a little fur wasn't an option.  So, she worked with her grandma to catch some mice at the farm and skin them and process the hide.   She sewed a few of the mouse skins together and voila - fur coat.  I know, I know.  It has a definite EW factor to it, but I still love the story.  It also shows how it is so typical of my family to allow its members to explore their creativity and chase their happiness. Even if in chasing that happiness a few mice lose their lives.  Or something. 

My Grandma was funny and capable and strong.  She was kind and generous and gave time and money to charities.  She made the best apple pie.  Ever.  She liked BLT sandwiches.  She could sew, quilt, cook and garden.  She canned vegetables and fruit.  She cheated at cards.  In the 80's she worked as an inspector in a meat packing plant, which was previously largely male-dominated.  The extra income saved our family's farm.  She stopped going to school in the 8th grade, but got her GED in her 70s.  She was smart. She washed plastic bags and used them over and over.  She dried them over the kitchen faucet and I'd usually see one drying when I was in her kitchen.  She liked watching PBS.  Every Christmas, she kept a bottle of Jagermeister in the freezer and invited people to have a taste of it with her.  She was a wonderful artist and could do pencil drawings and paint.  She was a fantastic hostess who made everyone feel comfortable. I don't recall her ever raising her voice in anger.  She learned how to use a computer when she was in her 80's and loved exchanging e-mails with her family.  She had a Facebook account. The last time I saw her, she hugged me and told me I'd always been a good girl (she had clearly forgotten my entire adolescence, but she was otherwise sharp until the end). The world isn't as nice of a place without her. I am lucky to have known her and I will miss her.

Now for the pattern review.
The good: I like the pattern itself.  The elastic on the back makes the dress fit close, but makes breathing possible.  I love the pockets  I like the row of buttons down the front.

The so-so: I think I would have liked gathers or pleats in the back of the dress, as well.  If I make this again, I think I'll add them. 

The complaints: Once again, I am not a fan of how the pattern pieces are all drawn on the same pieces of paper.  The pieces are overlapping and it is sometimes difficult to follow the right lines.  Not impossible, but kind of a pain. 

Here is Gertie's book (which I highly recommend).

My version of Gertie's Wiggle Dress - Step Two: Finished Dress

I have finished my version of Gertie's Wiggle dress.  I made the muslin and learned how to do two new techniques (underarm gussets and a vent in the back of the skirt).  I am also glad I made it because I realized that I needed to cut a size smaller if it was going to look right.  Here is the result.

 I picked a red polyester/wool blend.  Then, after I had the dress mostly done except for some hand sewing when I noticed that there are a lot of seasons of Man Men available on Netflix... so I dug in and spied this on episode 6 of season one.

It is really almost the same dress.  The back of the Gertie dress is a v and the one Joan is wearing on  Mad Men is rounded, but otherwise the fit and the style are really similar.  In a good way. This is my best Joan impression.  I didn't have a table in front of the camera, so I just leaned over and looked at the camera like I meant business. Or I was hungry.  Either way.

I love the lapped zipper and the v in the back.  I'll be honest, if it weren't for some fine foundation garments, there is no way I would post a photo of my backside.  But here it is.  I love you, foundation garment.  And chocolate.  I love you, too, chocolate.  I'll never give you up.

 Mine still isn't as tight as Joan's dress.  I decided that I might want to sit, move or breathe sometimes when wearing it, so I made it a little looser.  Maybe with a true stretch fabric, I could make it more fitted.

 The Details:
Fabric: 2 1/2 yards from SAS: 10.00 - content unknown... it was on the sale pile.
Zipper from SAS: .25
Organza for gussets: 1/4 yard: 2.50
Fusible Interfacing: leftover from another project: 0.00
Total: $12.75
 Pattern: Wiggle Dress from Gertie 's New Book for Better Sewing

Other Details:
The inside seams are sergered, except for the facing, which I applied a bias tape to.  I wasn't going to do the facings at all and switch to bias binding, but in the end, I just didn't want to deviate from the pattern.  I think I will be sewing this again, so I'll try bias instead of facings on the next version.  Bottom line it that I love this dress and would definitely recommend sewing it.  It goes together really quickly with not much hand-sewing.  There are only four pattern pieces if you don't count the facings. 

Tracing around the pattern pieces is a little annoying (see Wiggle Dress, step 1), but in the end, worth it.

I am still not convinced I've sewn something I can wear to the office, though.  It is a little more "LOOK AT ME!" than I generally go with.  Someday I will sew something practical.  But not even the next dress because it is another version of this pattern.  I am also anxious to try another one of Gertie's patterns from the book.

I am happy to submit this dress into the Mad Men challenge this year on Julia Bobbin's blog.  I can't wait to see the other entries! Everyone always does such a good job.

 

Image from Julia Bobbin's Blog.

My version of Gertie's Wiggle Dress - Step One: Muslin

When I got Gertie's book last year (New Book for Better Sewing) I was so thrilled with it.  There are a lot of nice pictures and patterns in it.  Then, inexplicably, I put in on the shelf and didn't touch it until this week. 

This is my fitting muslin for the wiggle dress. It is a strange looking muslin because it is not muslin colored.  I found this green fabric that is about muslin weight for $1.00 a yard - which is way cheaper than I can get proper muslin. And the "photography studio" - a.k.a our spare bedroom - was set up for another project, so I snuck in and snapped a couple of photos while the flattering lighting was up.  Here is the front of the dress:

And, against all better judgement, here is a picture of my backside.

 

Overall thoughts on the pattern:

• This is a really, really flattering dress if you have a small waist and larger hips. I was a little skeptical about making it since I usually stick with a-lines and avoid pencil skirts like the plague.  They don't usually look good on me since I am so bottom-heavy.  But this seems to be an exception.
• All of the pattern pieces for all of the items in the book are on only a few large pieces of paper.  The lines for all of them intersect and overlap and you trace them onto tissue to use as the pattern.  (I used tissue paper that is intended for gift wrapping.)  However, since all of the pieces and sizes are printed using the same color, it was a bit of a challenge making sure I was tracing the right line.  But there are only three main pieces plus some facings and gussets, so not so bad.
• Facings (below).  I don't think I liked them that much and am going to see if I can make a bias binding for the finished dress instead.  The truth is that I have always hated facings and usually fully line the dress when I can.  I don't think that will work for this dress, so I am excited to try bias binding.
• The instructions are sparse.  For example, since I have stuck to a-line and full skirts in the past, I had never sewn a vent in the back of a skirt.  In Gertie's instructions, it just says to make the vent.  I had to search You Tube for a tutorial on how to accomplish that.

•  Gussets!  Mine aren't exactly matching seams below, but I found they were much easier than I thought they would be.  For me, the instructions in the book were enough, since I already know how to do a welt pocket and bound buttonhole, but I think if I didn't, I would have had trouble with how little detail the book provides.

•  Ditto for the lapped zipper.  Luckily, the couture dress course at Craftsy teaches how to do a lapped zipper with an easy technique and I didn't have to search too hard.
• The sizing was good for me, but I have heard others complain about it.  I think it must be a body type issue.  It might not work as well for women with less full hips. I cut it a size larger than I thought I might need, but I think I had too much room in the dress.  
• The neckline feels really high when I am wearing it.  I am thinking about lowering it, but am not sure.  When I look at the photos of it, it looks ok.

Next step: I am going to make the dress in a red wool blend and have already cut out the pieces.   The heavier weight will be nice, plus it has just a little stretch.  The muslin is just a little too lightweight to work.   

Next up: red wool blend

Here is Gertie's book.  Well worth the money!  See the finished dress in part two.